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EQ and Compression: Bass Guitar

Bass guitar: tricks, tips and advice on getting the most out of equalization and compression.

Home recording and DIY production is a tricky old business for the newly initiated.

With each new software program, vst plugin, hardware and technique their comes a new challenge.

As with the other instruments I’ve talked about on this site, getting your bass to respond in your mix is every bit as important and needs just as much care and attention as anything else.

Your track can live or die by getting these things right.

I’m not an expert but I’ve picked up a few tips and tricks along the way.

Some may seem to contradict each other, but these are received wisdoms and as such should be treated as guidelines.

Every recording is different, there are no set in stone presets to fix what you need fixing.

Use your ears as guides and treat each recording as new material.

Get your mix right in the first place the mastering will be easier in the long run.

:::Compression Settings:::

These settings are guidelines only, use your ears it’s important that you get a sound that you feel fits with your material. Driving the compressor hard with create distortion, if that’s what you intend then go for it

Compression can also be used to control muddiness and level changes, peaks and dips.

If you’re new to bass then compression can help control the uneven peaks and dips in your playing volume.

Set your Threshold to the level where your compressor starts to work.

Ratio: 2.5:1 or 3:1increase this as you need to really but try and be careful with your settings, aggressive settings here will introduce distortion.

Attack: 40ms to 50ms – the attack of your bass is important, if the attack rate is too short you’ll create a muddy sound, less definition.

Release: Around 180ms – as always with your release settings you need to set it long enough to work but short enough so that when the instrument plays again the compressor is allowed to work. This way you’ll get the pumping so you want.

Gain: As always try not to add too much gain if any, make up any difference between your input and the output volume.

:::Equalization Settings:::

To add a fullness to your bass try a boost of between 1 and 2db in the 100 to 200hz frequency range.

To get rid of mud from your bass try a cut of around 3 to 4db in the 200-300hz range.

To add punch a boost of 2 to 3db between 500 to 1000hz should do the trick.

To give your bass more attack try boosting the frequency range between 2.5 and 5khz by 2 or 3db

:::Finally:::

A shelf to remove the lower end, around 40 to 50hz is always a good way to start with Bass guitar. It’s the part we can’t hear and most stereo systems can’t deal with.

Be aware that most mud occurs in the 200-300hz range, try small cuts if your instrument lacks definition.

Avoid if you can adding boosts below the 100hz but boosting between the 100 and 200hz range can fix a thin/flat sounding bass.

If your bass lacks punch then adding a little boost between 500 and 1000hz can increase this.

To bring in more attack and add sparkle try a boost inbetween the 2.5 and 5khz range.

When you work with the bass guitar bear in mind your kick drum, adjusting the frequncies of each instrument can allow each instrument to exist and be heard, when your cut from the bass try boosting the same frequency in the kick.

Be cool.

PC Problems – Vista SP1 update failure part 2 (fixed)

Previous Article

If you subjected yourself to my previous article about service pack 1 failing to install then I have news for you.

I fixed it, but I’m not saying it’s a definite fix.

Here’s what I did.

I got drastic. It took all weekend.

Step 1

Backup up everything and did a factory reset install.

That is I deleted/formatted and reinstalled everything(windows).

Step 2

Once windows setup I disabled windows firewall and let each update install from scratch.

Until I reached SP1 everything went well.

Failed twice.

Step 3

So looked in some forums.

Saw a tip to delete all files from windows/SoftwareDistribution

Well I deleted all files that I could.

Downloaded the SP1 pack itself and it installed.

Voila.

Now updates seem to work again.

Finallly.

This took far too much time really and I have a second laptop which means I can do without my other laptop.

My advice is this, unless the update failure is having a massive impact on your laptop/pc then don’t bother.

If like me you just want it to work then go this route – but be aware it’s a slog.

Also if you have or can get hold of another laptop/pc then make sure it’s connected to the internet so that you can search on any problems that present themselves.

If you’re not sure waht you’re doing then please leave alone.

And don’t blame me if it all goes tits up.

remember I’m an idiot.

Tips for Recording Guitar – Commit That Sound

Recording electric guitar is probably the easiest thing to do.

Just plug it into an £80 device and bob’s young uncle…

Or is it?

Much like anything on this site there is no right or wrong answer.

My background and taste in music veers from well produced to dank muddy lo-fi.

Guitar sound is down to personal taste.

I have my own set of rules and tips which may be of use to you.

—–

Commit: With the developement of VST guitar fx it is now possible to process guitar after recording.

This is for some a brilliant Idea, your actual recorded sound is kept in it’s clean/natural state and you can monitor it with a desired effect whilst recording without making a commitment.

This allows you to audition other sounds afterwards.

There are lot’s of high end guitar fx software packages out there,

Native Instruments Guitar Rig and IK Multimedias Amplitube 2 are probably the big 2.

There are also lot’s of free VST guitar effects knocking about and you can find some of them here on this site.

With the advent of guitar based USB and Firewire audio interfaces, getting guitar into your DAW is a peice of cake.

But there is a problem.

Even though the idea of being able to change a guitars sound after the fact does appeal at first, it also introduces more tinkering.

Time wasted trying to find the ‘right’ sound afterwards is time that could be spent elsewhere.

Commiting a sound from the word go solves this – and ok you’ll get some who will balk at that, but let’s leave them to it shalll we.

I have a Behringer V-Amp Pro rack effects unit, it does exactly what I need and sounds great.

It’s probably half the price of something exactly the same with a more highly regarded label.

Now I do connect to my sound card through a mixing desk and M-Audio sound card, so it is a more expansive and expensive setup.

I’m not saying you have to connect up your equipment like this, before now I’ve gone from the headphone socket of a Digitech RP90 straight into the line in on a laptop.

It’s about getting the sound chosen and recorded, taking away the chance to prevaricate.

Your guitar sound is your signature, the same as a vocalist – get your identity and use it.

Think about your favourite guitarists and their sound – how many times have you wanted to replicate that?

The Edge from U2 considers himself a sound processor rather than a guitarist – and he’s right but at the same time his sound is still distinctive to him.

If you have an album of 10 songs 10 completely different guitar sounds can be messy.

Get one guitar sound to work from and use that as your base sound.

I have 3 different guitar sounds I like and I use them all the time.

1. A very slightly Overdriven/Burnt sounding – ‘Clean’

2. Full on Distorted and Compressed

3. Tremelo w/ Overdrive

These three sounds are the basis of anything else I want to get to.

I don’t over process – Distortion + Delay or Overdrive + Tremelo – Too many effects muddy the ears.

I only use delay when absoulutely necessary to the sound and almost never use reverb.

Again these are my rules, and I stick to them 95% of the time.

I try not to over process because,

1. It can kill a guitar sound.

2. Too many effects muddy up the mix.

Guitarists love toys, they do, they just love to process but stop a minute and think about it.

Add a flanger and distortion to one guitar, then record repeat but change the phaser for a flanger pan left and right.

Does it work?

It might do – It might not.

Remember you’re the producer, it’s ultimately your choice.

Experiment…

Commiting sound saves time, it’s not a new technique but it’s a good one.

Dialling in a guitar effect from the get go will save you a lot of arseache but make sure you’re happy with it from the start.

I tend to mix as I go, that way I only add stuff that will fit within the mix – when I’ve veered off from that I’ve ended up spending more time on a recording than I should.

I have a song at the moment that I’ve remixed over 100 times, I’ve had other songs where the mix was there as soon as I finished recording the last note.

Gotta say I prefer it that way.

Apart from a few tweaks with eq I touch nothing on a guitar sound once recorded, (remember I mix a s I go) – I pan left and right and leave them where they stand. Sometimes on a verse I pan 50% left and 50% right then into the chorus pan hard left(100%) and hard right(100%)

Commiting or printing your guitar sound, if you’re like me is the best option in the end.

Remember these are ideas, tips not gospel – I use these in my own recordings but I’m not an expert.

Home Studio – Work Faster part 1

More speed cap’n!

You could get yourself a galley slave drummer to bang out a beat to inspire you to create quicker or mebbe you should change the way you work…

1 =>o>>> Create a template –

In Sonar I have a few templates that I work from.

For example:

“32 track Template”

8 Audio Tracks – In 1st folder * Verse

8 Audio Tracks – In 2nd folder * Chorus

8 Midi Tracks In 3rd folder ** Verse

8 Midi Tracks In 4th Folder ** Chorus

Video Guide to creating folders

Drum VST instrument already inserted and assigned to:

1 midi track in **verse folder and

1 midi track midi in **chorus folder

This allows me enough room to manouvre and change as I want but also gives me enough of the initial elements I needto get started.

You could add FX to audio tracks and your favourite goto synth plugin.

It’s up to you.

==O=->

2 =>o>>> Get a Midi Controller –

Probably the best time saver there is – and your wrist will be grateful.

Get a dedicated midi controller with sliders and knobs(ooer) like the Korg NanoKONTROL or similar.

There’s something very pleasing about being able to twiddle knobs and push sliders rather than having to use a mouse.

They may take a bit of setting up but man it’s worth it.

==O=->

3 =>o>>> Two Monitors –

Bit of an expensive one, but as someone who has done this in the past and wishes he had the room to do again, I can tell you it’s really the dog’s gonads.

Having to switch between a synth and DAW is a drag at times, having both up on screen not only looks cool, it saves time and your mind. Does need a second video output card though which is an arse but hey…

==O=->

Bye

Compression – Jargon Busting

Threshold -o->

Level at which the compressor starts to work.

Example -16db is peak level = <= set level at -18db => everything above -18db will be compressed

Ratio -o->

Amount of gain reduction to be applied to signal that exceeds threshold level – see above…

Attack -o->

Measured usually in milliseconds or ms => time taken for the compressor to start working.

Release -o->

As with attack but this time = time taken for compression to stop working – tail off as level drops below threshold.

Make-up -o-> the amount of gain applied to ‘make up’ gain reduced by compressor.

Knee -o-> soft or hard – decides wether the response curve has a sharp or rounded edge.

–o–>Example of use

Let’s say we have a vocal track that has an average level of -16db

(note the use of minus, this is because we are -16db below 0db)

So again a vocal track at -16db

We set our threshold at -18db(minus 18db)

Which is ‘2‘ below our tracks peak volume of -16db

Everything above -18db will now be worked on by the compressor.

So now we set out compressors ratio to 2:1

This means a 2 to 1 reduction.

–~o-> Oh no maths time…

our peak is -16db

our threshold is -18db

we have 2db exceeding our threshold

ration 2:1 means that every db above threshold will be reduced/divided by 2

therefore that 2db will become 1db and our level will now show at -17db

Make sense?

Now if we wanted to get our volume back up to -16db we can do this by adjusting our make up gain.

Also by using the attack and release settings we can decide how quickly we want the the comprssor to start and finish working.

It’s a lot to take in really – and it’s best actually experimenting with a compressor to see what is what.

It took me quite a while to get my head around it but eventually it started to sing in.

Have Fun…