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Archive for the ‘PC Problems’ Category

Creating a cheap as chips network storage system

It’s been a while since I last wrote anything on here  but here goes.

A while back I started looking into the idea of network storage drives but each time was put off by the cost.

Last week I decided I to take the plunge.

As is usually the case I decided that I should check out the reviews on each item that seemed suitable in price and size.

Unforunately it seemed that most of the ones I was contemplating where either unreliable, limited in use or just plain junk.

So what would be the solution?

Build one myself!!!

———————–

I knew I had some spare drives and an old HP Kayak workstation in the attic that I’d previously bought to transfer samples across to Emu sampler I once had.

At the time I must have known a tinkering was in it’s future because I hadn’t stripped it for parts and thrown it away.

At the time I’d paid £10 for it.

Luckily for me I’d upgraded my old 19″ monitor for a brand new 22″ widescreen model.

So now I have Workstation, Monitor + spare 40gb hard drive and keyboard and mouse.

The workstation came with Windows 2000 professional already installed, 256mb ram and 10gb system hard drive.

It also came with the most important bit, a 10/100 LAN card installed.

Now I know what your saying, 40gb is not a lot of space or I haven’t got a spare monitor or PC.

Well let me answer those:

1. 40gb is a small  amount but what we’re creating here is a network server. This will allow us to do an awful lot.

It will let us attach any usb or parallel device with will give us networked printers.

This will also allow us to attach via usb any usb hard drive we have and leave it attached.

Also if you take into account that the PC has 4 IDE channels – this gives us minus the os hard drive three more attached drives(we won’t be needing a CD or DVD drive).

Look on ebay, a 120gb hard drive can be bought for £10 – work it out 120gb x 3 = 360gb at £30 cost.

Be careful though and check what size drive your motherboard, OS and bios will support.

2. On the subject of spare monitors, you don’t need one! You can use your desktop monitor to set it up and maintain if needed – or borrow one from a friend.

Once up and running it won’t need a monitor, we’re just using it for network storage and networking our printers and besides further on I’ll show you how to get access to the screen without a monitor.

On the subject of keyboard and mouse.

You’ll need the keyboard attached at least and it’s always worth having a spare mouse knocking around, again ebay can cut costs here, don’t go for fancy, go for cheap.

———————————————–

Let’s do a bit of costing on my system as an example

Workstation = £10

Monitor = £0 already owned

Keyboard and Mouse = £0 spares from attic

40gb hard drive = £0 spare.

120gb hard drive = £10 bought on ebay

LAN card = £0 already installed

Network Cable = £0 spare

In total £20 for a 160gb network hard drive.

You’d have to cost in any item you don’t own but LAN cards and Network cables are cheap on ebay, in fact if you have a wireless router you should have an appropriate cable somewhere already.

Anyway lets’ get on with it.

———————————

Setting up the network.

For this bit I’m going to name the two PCs I used to setup.

PC = Workstation(wired) and Laptop = Laptop(wireless)

Attach the network cable to the PC LAN card and attach the other end to the first port on your router.

Fire up your PC.

Now please note, PC has windows 2000 professional installed and LAPTOP has windows vista.

On my network these two found each other straight away. If you have problems at this point then you’ll need to do some extra reading on setting up a network. Google is your friend!

Now onto the cool part.

I now have my Xbox(softmod) and XMBC installed connected to router(wired), my Laptop connected by wireless, PC connected(wired) with printer attached and 250gb usb hard drive attached also.

My xbox can access my music collection from the PC, my laptop can also access said PC and I can also print via network printing.

Network printing is easy to set up -

1st install printer drivers on all attached computers wanting to print from.

2nd attach printer to PC that is attached to router

3rd In Vista – Goto Start – Settings – Printers – ADD Printer add a network printer – if your network is setup and printer is on then it should find it.

———————

Finally the really cool part

How about having access to your files when away, such as your music collection or wanting all your business files secure.

This will work with a laptop, desktop and netbook.

1st You’ll need a gmail account

2nd You’ll need to download this peice of software GBridge

Gbridge is a free software that lets you remotely control PCs, sync folders, share files, and chat securely and easily. An extension of Google’s gtalk service, Gbridge automatically forms a collaborative, encrypted VPN (Virtual Private Network) that connects your computers and your friends’ computers directly and securely with patented technology. Gbridge has many unique features.

DesktopShare and SecureShare are the ones we’re looking at.

Once the software has been installed on all pcs attached to our network we can connect from anywhere in the world.

You can play mp3′s direct from a browser!

You can also connect to the PCs desktop via Gbridges VNC connection, which means you can remotely control your PC, which also means no need for a monitor.

Gbridge is free and easy to use.

————————————–

Well that’s me done, hope there is some food for thought there,

Words of Advice: Old Motherboard and Sata

Upgrading Sata Hard Drive dfrom IDE

If you have like I do an older motherboard then be aware when buying a new sata drive.

I own an AV8 3rd Eye motherboard with a sata speed of 1.5 GB/s

The newer Sata drives are 3 GB/s

To get these two to work together you need a hard drive that can ‘slow’ itself down to be compatable.

This week I tried to update my drives from IDE to SATA.

Bought two Samsung drives,

500GB SSUNG HD502HJ F3 SATA HD

1TB SAMSUNG HD103SJ SATA F3

When I installed them Bios didn’t see them at all.

I deduced that this would be down to autonegotiation.

Rather than bore with what happened next I’ll just say this,

Don’t waste your time. These will not work, they cannot be slowed down, the software from Samsung doesn’t work.

If you need to upgrade look at Seagate drives they have jumpers that allow a change of speed from 3gb/s to 1.5

I bought two of these,

500 GB Seagate ST3500418AS Barracuda

They work perfectly well.

And they where cheap, I bought them at www.scan.co.uk

The beauty of these drives is that they have jumpers on them which you can find

Sata drives don’t normally come with jumpers for normal operation. However your
motherboard (like mine) or host adapter may use a chipset that does not support SATA speed autonegotiation.

Install a jumper as shown in picture below to limit the data transfer rate to 1.5 Gbits per second.

How it helps.

Please Note: You mess with your own pc at your own risk, I take no responsibilty for any thing going wrong.

This worked for me and as such I’m passing the knowledge along but please only tinker if you are confident in your own abilities.

Teaching an old PC new tricks

What can you do with old PCs?

Not a lot?

Well depends what you want to do.

I have a lot of SCSI based equipment, at the moment they connect to my main DAW PC.

This of course  is not ideal.

My main SCSI units are my EMU ESI samplers.

And they are also my main reason for this article.

Is it possible to breath life into an antiquated PC?

I believe so.

So I had this idea a week ago, find an old pc and set it up for sending samples to my samplers.

It had to be able to run propellerheads Recycle and maybe an audio editor.

I then decided that if it can run the SCSI card to do the job of communicating with the ESI sampler, then maybe it can also run my SCSI CD burners.

So the PC has to be able to run Recycle, possibly wavosaur or audacity and hopefully Nero burning software.

Software will be kept down to a minimum to save on space and clogging the system.

***DISCLAIMER: Before you go ahead you’ll need some basic knowledge of how to set up networks and how to adjust your bios.

You’ll also be possibly installing software and hardware dependent on what you want to do.

If you’re not sure you’re capable then don’t try it. If you need to understand setting up a network then make sure you’re comfortable with that before you carry on. There is no information about that here.***

:::The PC:::

Kayak XA WS DT 400MHZ Pentium II

Graveyard stuff this, 4.3 gig hard drive installed with Windows 2000.

Weirdly with only 128meg installed it starts up quite fast. Noisy but fast.

Strangely on the day I take ownership from one friend another friend gives me a second ancient desktop which has been in his garage.

Curiosity as always kills the cat and I’m a curious little bugger, I plug it in and it blows. Not big but a pop all the same.

I open it up and see rust all over the inside and on the fan of the processor. Lesson there, if in doubt open it up and take a looksy before you plug it into the mains.

Two sticks of 64 meg and a 10 gig hard drive are salvaged and in working order.

So in they go into the Kayak.

:::The Upgrades:::

Extra ram from the rusty death trap give me over 240meg of ram in total.

The salvaged hard drive gives me an extra 10gb of storage space.

I install two SCSI cards, an adaptec to communicate with my samplers and a generic one to control the two CD burners I have removed from the DAW.

I’ll install an M-Audio Audiophile 2496 as it’s sound card as that will work with a low spec PC and my EMU 0404 won’t.

The Audiophile 2496 will give me digital, analogue and midi inputs and outputs.

Allowing me to use this desktop as my sampling and editing machine for the samplers.

:::One Keyboard, Mouse and Monitor for two pcs:::

Sharing the keyboard is an issue, KVM switches are quite expensive and space becomes a desktop issue.

So how about using a lan connection?

Apparently a VNC based software program will allow you to do this.

Problem arises with a pc not having a keyboard plugged in it will fail to start.

To fix this we can try and disable keyboard and mouse in bios if you are able to or set it to halt on no errors.

With VNC it will boot without a keyboard if your bios allows it.

The Kayaks Bios does not have that function available. In fact there is nothing regarding the keyboard or mouse.

This presents a problem, to find an update if one is available and wether or not to risk flashing the bios.

Seems there isn’t a bios update, need to find a keyboard.

Had a look around and it looks like I’m going to have to have a spare keyboard at least, no bother though it’ll easily be stored somewhere.

So before I begin again, let’s make that known. A second keyboard will need to be connected in order for the PC to bootup. I’m pretty sure all PCs make ane error noise when no mouse is found but still enter windows.

Before I begin though, installing the EMU ESI sampler and making sure it works is the main reason for this experiment. So best check it does work.

I connect the Syquest Drive and the ESI via the Adaptec Scsi card. Turn on windows. First connection finds the EMU ESI and Syquest but software(recycle) doesn’t see them.

So now I remember, ASPI drivers. Download from here @ chicken systems.

Now the old dog sees the rabbit – the PC sees the Sampler and Syquest. Cushty.

Back to connecting my two pcs.

Setting up a network between the 2 pcs – Old Dog w/Windows 2000 <-> New Dog=Laptop /w XP.

You’ll need a cat 5 crossover cable and both PCs should have LAN cards installed.

I have two 100/10 cards – this should be adequate – if I wanted to I could connect using two 1000/10 cards.

It’s not really an issue for me to do that at the moment but who knows what will happen in the future.

Setting up a network is really quite simple, but if you have no idea you’ll need to do some reading up on that, it’s one of those things that works differently for everyone in my experience.

Also you’ll need to give each of your PCs a static address.

Basically – Control Panel -> Network Connections -> * Local Connection -> Right Click -> Properties

Local Connection General

General -> Internet Protocol(TCP/IP) -> Click Properties

Local Connection General

Change: ‘Obtain an Ip address automatically’ to ‘Use the following IP Address’

Local Connection General

The ‘IP’ address should be different than any already on your network.

The only number that you need to change here is the last number.

In this IP we have ’4′ the rest stay the same this should be changed.

‘Subnet Mask’ – This will update automatically.

You should do this on both PCs – also be aware, if you intend to use a laptop or PC that connect to the internet you may have problems connecting to the web whilst being networked in the above way.

This will fix itself when you disconnect. Or at least it does on my Laptop which connects wirelessly.

Restart each machine and check that they connect to each other.

If everything works ok and the two pcs connect then we’re ready to install our software.

TightVNC – software

This is the software I installed, I downloaded it from above site.

Again this being advanced noodling you’ll need to either read the instructions or just go for it.

Restart each PC when it has installed.

:::Finally:::

On the PC we want to log into we will also need Tweak UI Powertoys – to enable auto login.

When you’ve installed TweakUI you can go to *Control Panel* and TweakUI – with that software change you’re logon option to auto.

To test your system unplug your monitor from the ‘Old Dog’ and restart both pcs wait, go and make a coffee or something – give it enough time.

Then try and logon using TightVNC if no joy then check your pc – you’ll need to reconnect the monitor again.

On the PC we want to log into we will also need Tweak UI Powertoys – to enable auto login.

Hopefully you’ll now be able to control the old dog with the new dog.

Have fun.

XP and Bios Tweaks and Fixes, Pops and Glitches

This article is basically a troubleshoot of a problem I have, it’s also an excuse to have a look at some of the tweaks and fixes that can be found in your bios settings.

The problem I’m having comes in three forms:

1. Sonar: CPU spikes to 100% hits red with a ‘warning’ sign

2. Powercore disables itself periodically.

3. After recording hard drive seems slow in updating Sonar with new track.

I’m convinced this is an IRQ conflict, I recently installed a Powercore element card alongside my UAD, M-Audio 2496, Adaptec and Gigabit network card.

All my PCI slots are now maxed out.

An IRQ conflict is when too devices are assigned the same IRQ.

IMPORTANT NOTE:As usual with all the troubleshooting and noodling with settings that I write about on this site please remember that I am an idiot and I take no responsibility for anything that goes hooky with your system. Please read this guide first and only attempt the fixes if you’re confident enough to do so. Also please, please, please

***BACK UP EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU START***

:::Check IRQ:::

Start -> Settings -> Control Panel

System -> Hardware -> Device Manager

At the top of device manager you have four choices File, Action, View and Help.

View ->Resources by connection

Click on the (+) next to ‘Interrupt Request’

This will give you a list of all your devices and there IRQ settings.

Check each devices number and see if they conflict with anything else/have the same number.

When I did this I had a few conflicts.

Mainly my Powercore is on the same IRQ as my Gigabit network card.

So time for the old switcheroo.

Switching cards around is usually a way of reaasigning IRQs.

Pain in the arse really. Also worth a mention is moving the sound card as far away from the Processor as possible.

Before you go ahead make sure you have all your drivers just in case.

If you’re going to do this do one card at a time, sometimes software that have protection will get confused and think a new pc has been setup and want reinstalling. To be on the safe side, one at a time, restart windows and check IRQs. You never know you might get lucky.

:::Update on my system:::

Apart from having to update my drivers I have no IRQ conflicts, but I’ve also removed the gigabit lan card.

This is not exactly a pain but neither is it ideal. I used the Lan for FX Teleport and even though I can still use my onboard Lan ikt may not work as well. Oh well onwards and upwards, maybe I can reinstall it later if everything else is ok.

:::Bios Tweaking:::

Now I’ve fixed my first problem the IRQs it’s time to teak my bios.

As I go along I’ll try and give info on each component.

Start PC and press F2 or whichever key it is you need to enter you bios.

First let’s start with disabling anything we don’t need.

Eg: Onboard Sound Card, Midi, Serial Port, LPT port etc.

Make sure they’re not in use. If you’re not sure then don’t touch.

Some tweaks

FDC – Floppy Disc Controller – I don’t have a floppy disc drive so that can be disabled, also must rmeove floppy from start up options.

Spread Spectrum – For better performance disable – spread spectrum slows the system.

CPU Host Frequency – Unless overclocking leave this as auto.

DRAM Frequency – Leave as Auto

Flexibility Option – Leave as disabled

:::Chipset Configuation:::

AGP Mode – Not using games so I’m going to set it x4 rather than the maximum x8 – to be safe leave alone

AGP Aperture Size – Again as this is an audio PC going to set this to the minimum 32mb – to be safe leave as is

AGP Fastwrite – Recommended to disable fast write if having problems

PCI Delay Transaction – Enabled increases performance if you have an ISA bus – check your driver connections in device manager as previously to see if there is an ISA bus if not sure leave alone.

:::Resource Configuartion:::

PCI Latency Timer (PCI Clocks) – Seen a tip that states for better performance increase the value. On other sites though the longer the latency period can affect performance. I’m going to set it to highest and see what happens. I can always test it later.

:::Fini:::

So after a restart it seems that my system is a lot more stable.

I’ve set it to defrag the audio hard drive.

So fingers crossed.

PC Problems – Vista SP1 update failure part 2 (fixed)

Previous Article

If you subjected yourself to my previous article about service pack 1 failing to install then I have news for you.

I fixed it, but I’m not saying it’s a definite fix.

Here’s what I did.

I got drastic. It took all weekend.

Step 1

Backup up everything and did a factory reset install.

That is I deleted/formatted and reinstalled everything(windows).

Step 2

Once windows setup I disabled windows firewall and let each update install from scratch.

Until I reached SP1 everything went well.

Failed twice.

Step 3

So looked in some forums.

Saw a tip to delete all files from windows/SoftwareDistribution

Well I deleted all files that I could.

Downloaded the SP1 pack itself and it installed.

Voila.

Now updates seem to work again.

Finallly.

This took far too much time really and I have a second laptop which means I can do without my other laptop.

My advice is this, unless the update failure is having a massive impact on your laptop/pc then don’t bother.

If like me you just want it to work then go this route – but be aware it’s a slog.

Also if you have or can get hold of another laptop/pc then make sure it’s connected to the internet so that you can search on any problems that present themselves.

If you’re not sure waht you’re doing then please leave alone.

And don’t blame me if it all goes tits up.

remember I’m an idiot.